The Brand Owner’s Guide to Custom Logo Hoodies

Created on 01.09

Hoodies are “simple” until you run bulk. Fabric and decoration choices decide your margin, your handfeel, and whether customers keep wearing the thing. This guide is the framework I use to spec a custom logo hoodie program—from fleece type to GSM to decoration—so sampling doesn’t lie and bulk doesn’t punish you.

Featured Snippet Pack

What is the best fabric for a custom logo hoodie?

For most brands, a cotton-rich brushed fleece with a stable face is the safest “everyone likes it” option. It reads premium, takes embroidery well, and feels warm. The catch: cheap face yarn and aggressive brushing can pill fast after wash. If graphics matter more than warmth, French terry usually prints cleaner.

Screen print vs embroidery: what’s the real difference on hoodies?

Embroidery is dimensional and durable, but it can tunnel, feel heavy, and stiffen the chest—especially on lighter fabrics. Screen print can look sharp and stay soft when done right, but cure temps, stretch, and wash abrasion decide if it cracks. Choose embroidery for “badge” logos; choose print for large, flat graphics.

What GSM is best for a hoodie?

Most reliable “retail” hoodies live in the 320–450 GSM band depending on fiber and structure. Under that, you risk hood collapse, pocket waviness, and rib losing snap-back after wash. Over that, you get a premium drape but higher shrink risk and longer dry times. Always judge GSM on a finished garment, not a cute swatch.

Quick Decision Guide (5 bullets)

If you want premium heavyweight feel, pick cotton-rich brushed fleece 400–450 GSM, because it drapes dense and reads expensive.
If you want low-cost promo runs, pick poly/cotton fleece 280–340 GSM, because yield is better and dry time is fast.
If you want ultra-soft handfeel, pick cotton-rich fleece with controlled brushing, because the wrong brush turns into pilling debt.
If you want best logo durability, pick embroidery (with proper underlay) or woven patch, because wash abrasion is less brutal than on prints.
If you want fastest reorders, pick stock yarn/dyed goods + simple placements, because custom dye lots and complex artwork slow everything down.

Fabric Options — Fleece vs French Terry vs “Performance” Blends

Brushed fleece is usually a knit with a brushed interior. Warm, cozy, and forgiving on-body. The face can be smooth or slightly fuzzy depending on yarn and finishing. It’s friendly to embroidery, but big prints can feel thicker because the fabric itself is already lofty.

French terry (loopback) has loops on the inside and a cleaner face. It’s the go-to when you want graphics to look crisp and you don’t want that full winter bulk. It’s also less likely to shed fuzz onto prints.

“Performance” blends usually mean more polyester (sometimes a little elastane). Easy care, recovery, and dry time improve—but you can pay for it in shine, static, and that “hot but somehow cold” comfort problem.

Real sourcing reality: bulk failures rarely come from the headline spec. They come from handfeel shifting after wash, fleece shear shedding, dye lot drift between body and rib, and a supplier who judged the fabric on a lab swatch instead of a sewn hoodie.

What I’d check before approving fabric

A wash test on the finished hoodie, checking shrink, twist, and rib snap-back.
Face quality under light: any hairiness, weak yarn, or uneven knit shows up fast.
Color match across body/hood/pocket/rib—same dye lot, same shade target.

Cotton-Rich Brushed Fleece — The Crowd-Pleaser (and the traps)

Cotton-rich fleece is popular for a reason. It feels “real,” it accepts dye well, and customers understand it instantly. Brushing boosts softness, but brushing is also where factories can hide weak face yarn. A hoodie can feel amazing out of the polybag and look tired after five washes.

Here’s where brands mess up: they approve fabric by touching a swatch and eyeballing the inside. In bulk, the face yarn matters more. If the face is weak, you’ll see pilling, fuzzing, and that dusty look that makes a logo feel cheap.

If you care about pilling, ask your lab for results aligned to the random tumble approach (it’s commonly used for apparel fabrics), and don’t accept “looks fine” as data. Use an official method reference like the ASTM D3512 method. (ASTM International | ASTM)

Cotton fleece red flags

Face looks slightly “hairy” before wash (it won’t get better).
Brushed interior sheds onto your black tee in the fitting room.
Rib and body don’t match shade under daylight.
Supplier can’t state GSM tolerance and shrink target.
Embroidery sample shows puckering already (bulk will be worse).

French Terry — Cleaner Face, Better Print, Less ‘Winter’

French terry wins when you want graphics to do the talking. Cleaner face, sharper edges on screen print, and less fuzz interfering with adhesive-based transfers. It’s also a smart choice for spring/fall drops or streetwear programs where layering matters.

The warning: low GSM terry can look fine flat and then misbehave sewn. You’ll see kangaroo pocket waviness, hem ripple, and after-wash torque/twist that throws side seams forward. Also, terry loops can snag. Not catastrophic—just not “premium.”

French terry red flags

Light GSM that turns semi-sheer when stretched.
Side seams twist after a quick wash test.
Pocket top edge waves even before wash.
Rib grows and doesn’t snap back at cuffs.

Poly / Blends — Durable, Fast, and Sometimes Shiny

“Performance” for hoodies usually means easy care and recovery, not magic athletic claims. Cotton/poly fleece is common. Full poly fleece shows up in value programs. Add a touch of elastane and you get nicer recovery—but you also raise heat sensitivity for decoration.

Tradeoffs you need to accept up front: shine, static, odor retention, and the risk of dye migration into prints (especially light inks on dark poly). Also, polyester can pill in a different, uglier way—tight little pills that don’t brush off.

When I recommend blends: uniform programs, team merch that gets washed hard, or when lead time matters more than “heritage cotton feel.”

Decoration Methods — What Actually Holds Up on Hoodies

Embroidery: Best for small-to-medium chest logos and sleeve marks. Failure modes are tunneling, stiff handfeel, and needle cuts on unstable knits. Ask for proper underlay, sensible density, and the right stabilizer so the fabric doesn’t ripple.

Embroidery machine stitching a yellow windmill design on black fabric.

Screen print: Great for bold graphics and soft hand if ink is chosen well. Failure modes: cracking, rough hand, and “looks perfect until wash.” Cure matters, stretch matters, and so does placement (hoodies flex at the pocket and across the chest).

DTF / transfers: Fast for multi-color, detailed art. Failure modes: edge lift, plastic feel, and wash abrasion turning the print gray. You must define wash testing and acceptable edge behavior.

HTV (vinyl): Sharp but can feel like a badge. Failure modes: lifting at corners and a “stuck-on” look on premium garments.

Patches (woven/embroidered): Durable and premium when done right. Failure modes: edge lift, scratchy backs, and inconsistent placement.

What to request (non-negotiable)

Stitch plan: density range, underlay type, stabilizer/backing details.
Print/transfer: ink or film type, cure window, and stretch expectations.
A wash test requirement: photos after wash, not just “passed.”
Placement template with measured points from seams (not “about here”).

Comparison Table (B2B)

Option	Structure / Drape	Warmth	Print Friendliness	Embroidery Friendliness	Durability	Cost Drivers	Risk Factors	Best Use Case
Brushed Fleece	Lofty, cushy, can feel premium	High	Medium (thicker hand)	High	Medium–High	Face yarn quality, brushing, dye	Pilling, shedding, shade mismatch	Core logo hoodies, premium basics
French Terry	Cleaner face, lighter drape	Medium	High	Medium	Medium	Loop quality, GSM, finishing	Twist, waviness, snagging	Graphic-heavy drops, light layering
Poly/Blend	Can be structured or slick	Medium	Medium–High (depends)	Medium	High (if well-made)	Yarn type, anti-pill finish, dye	Shine, static, migration, pill type	Uniforms, value programs, fast turns

5 rules that prevent expensive mistakes

Approve finished garment wash results, not fabric swatches.
Lock GSM tolerance and shrink target in writing.
Treat rib as a separate material: match shade, recovery, and composition.
Decoration must pass the wash plan you define—same cycle, same dryer behavior.
Demand reorder discipline: dye lot tracking, trim continuity, and spec control.

GSM (Weight) — The Lever Most Brands Misjudge

GSM is the shortcut buyers love—and the shortcut that bites. A hoodie isn’t just “heavy or light.” GSM interacts with yarn, knit structure, and finishing. Two fabrics can share a number and wear totally differently.

Practical bands I use:

Light (260–320 GSM):fashion layering, but watch hood collapse and pocket waviness.
Standard (320–380 GSM):safest retail zone for most programs.
Heavy (380–500 GSM):premium drape, higher shrink and longer dry time. Great when controlled.

Swatch scenario I see every season: swatch felt rich, bulk hoodie failed because the rib grew, shrink exceeded tolerance, and the chest print cracked where the fabric flexed. The swatch didn’t show any of that.

Fit, Pattern, and Rib — Hoodies Live or Die Here

If the rib is wrong, the hoodie looks wrong. Period. You want snap-back at cuffs and hem, and you want the hood edge to hold shape instead of collapsing.

Also, shrink isn’t a “fabric problem.” It’s a pattern problem if you didn’t allow for it. Set a shrink target, then build the pattern to land on-body after wash. Otherwise sleeves go short, body rides up, and customers call it “bad sizing.”

Size grading reality: S–XXXL isn’t just adding width. Oversized fits need controlled neck opening, stable shoulder seam, and a hood that doesn’t balloon. Bigger sizes also amplify pocket alignment and seam waviness. If your factory can’t show grading rules, you’re gambling.

Buy Like a Global Brand (Spec + Tests + Compliance)

A hoodie isn’t a decision until it’s a spec sheet. Anything else is vibes.

Buyer checklist I’d put in every tech pack:

Fiber content and yarn notes (especially face yarn).
Knit construction and finishing (brushed/anti-pill/loopback).
GSM target and tolerance.
Shrink target after home laundering, plus twist tolerance.
Pilling expectation and test approach.
Colorfastness expectations (wash, rub) relevant to your color/print.
Rib composition, weight, and recovery targets.
Decoration method + placement map + size scaling rules.
Wash test plan for approval and for bulk.
Packaging and labeling requirements.

For shrink and dimensional stability, reference an official home-laundering method so labs and suppliers aren’t “freestyling,” like the AATCC TM135 method. (members.aatcc.org)

For U.S. labeling basics (fiber content, country of origin, responsible company), use the FTC’s own guidance—start here: FTC labeling guidance. (Federal Trade Commission)

If you’re asking for chemical safety claims, don’t accept a logo on a PDF. Verify what the certification covers and who holds it via the official STANDARD 100 scope. (oeko-tex.com)

Choosing the Right Manufacturing Partner (Cut/Sew Reality)

Good hoodie factories win on boring stuff: pattern control, rib attachment, hood construction, pocket alignment, seam stability, and decoration QC that catches problems before cartons are sealed. Great factories also win on reorders: they can repeat shade, repeat fit, and repeat artwork placement without “new season surprises.”

Textile worker sewing with industrial machine in a factory setting.

Pro-tip: don’t judge a factory by the prettiest sample. Judge them by how they handle a correction. If they push back on measurable fixes (shrink, rib recovery, placement), bulk will be a negotiation every time.

If you want a partner who can support cut-and-sew programs (not just blanks), start with a simple next step like this: cut-and-sew manufacturing partner.

Copy-paste RFQ mini-template (5–8 lines)

Style: pullover/zip, brushed fleece or terry, target GSM + tolerance
Fit: standard/oversized, size range, grading rules required
Shrink target + twist tolerance after home laundering
Rib: composition, weight, recovery target, shade match requirement
Decoration: method, placement map, wash test requirement
Color: Pantone/target, dye lot control plan for reorders
QC: in-line checks, measurement plan, AQL expectation
Timeline: sample rounds, bulk lead time, reorder lead time

Conclusion

Pick fabric and decoration like you’re planning a reorder, not a photoshoot. Choose a GSM band your factory can hold, lock rib behavior, and force decisions through wash-tested garments. Do that, and your custom logo hoodie program becomes repeatable instead of stressful.

What to do this week

Build a one-page spec sheet with GSM tolerance, shrink target, and rib requirements.
Run a wash test on a finished hoodie and document what changed (fit, twist, handfeel).
Approve decoration only after you see post-wash photos and feel it on-body.

FAQ (People Also Ask style)

1) What’s the best fabric choice for branded hoodies that feel premium?

Cotton-rich brushed fleece is the safest “premium basic” choice when the face yarn is strong and the brushing is controlled. It feels warm and substantial, and embroidery sits nicely. The risk is pilling after wash if the face is weak. If you want a cleaner, sharper surface for graphics, French terry can look more “designed.”

2) What GSM bands work best for a standard retail hoodie?

Most brands succeed in the 320–380 GSM range because it balances drape, warmth, and shrink risk. Lighter (260–320) can work for fashion layering but shows construction flaws faster. Heavier (380–500) reads premium but needs tighter control on shrink, rib recovery, and drying behavior—or you’ll get short sleeves and grown hems.

3) How do I control pilling on fleece hoodies?

Start with face yarn quality. Pilling is often a yarn/finish problem, not something you can “QA” away later. Specify pilling expectations, require testing, and wash test a finished hoodie. Watch for early warning signs: hairiness on the face, heavy interior shedding, and a soft hand that turns fuzzy after one wash. Anti-pill finishes help, but they’re not miracles.

4) Is embroidery more durable than screen printing on hoodies?

Often, yes—but only in the right use case. Embroidery holds up well for small-to-medium logos, especially on stable fabrics. It can fail visually through tunneling or distortion, and it can feel heavy on lighter weights. Screen printing can be durable too, but durability depends on ink system, cure control, and how much the garment stretches in wear and wash.

5) DTF vs screen print: which is better for detailed artwork?

DTF is great for high-detail, multi-color art with quick turn. The tradeoff is handfeel and long-term edge behavior. Screen print can be softer and more “integrated” when done well, but it’s less forgiving on highly detailed gradients. If you choose DTF, define wash testing, acceptable edge lift, and how the print should feel on-body.

6) What shrink tolerance should I set for hoodies?

Set a target and build the pattern to land after wash. Many brands use a tight tolerance for length and sleeve because those are the complaints customers notice. The exact number depends on fiber and construction, but what matters is consistency: same wash method, same dryer behavior, same measuring points. If your supplier can’t commit to a target and show results, it’s not controlled.

7) How should I grade sizes for oversized hoodies (S–XXXL)?

Oversized grading isn’t just adding width. Control the neck opening, shoulder slope, hood volume, and sleeve shape so the hoodie still “hangs right.” Bigger sizes amplify pocket alignment and seam waviness, so require measurement points and tolerances that scale with size. Ask for a graded spec chart and check a full size set, not just one fit sample.

8) How do I make reorders consistent year after year?

Consistency comes from discipline: lock the spec sheet, track dye lots, standardize trims (cords, zippers, rib), and keep decoration files/versioning clean. Require your supplier to document any material substitutions. The fastest way to kill reorder consistency is approving “equivalent” fabrics without re-testing shrink, twist, and color match on a finished garment.